No Jobs, No Home, No Worries. A Shared Journey by Bike and Support SUV Across the U.S.

Day 13 miles: 100 Total miles: 576

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By bike:

So I did my first century. It wasn’t exactly planned but I needed to get to Eureka. After biking 30 miles, checking out a small hike with Lauren, and taking a 2 hour break due to bike issues, I gave Lauren my gear truly for the first time and high-tailed it to Eureka. Of course, this was after chugging 32 oz of Mountain Dew.

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It was rough but being without gear makes the journey so much sweeter. Another bonus of having Lauren and her SUV along! More aerodynamic downhill and less energy spent uphill, I cruised up Libby Dam. It was hot and I was chugging 1 liter an hour but meeting Lauren every 20 miles gave me all the motivation I needed to get to Eureka.

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Ben had recommended a restaurant for us to stop by in Eureka, and I had to make it before they closed! The last 20 miles I powered through downhill and, though sore everywhere from the saddle to my ankles, made it by 7:30 p.m. with 30 minutes until the restaurant closed.

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Not much else to comment on as it was essentially a workday. 

By car:

Matthew took off by sunrise and I allowed myself some time to stay cozied up in my sleeping bag with some camp stove coffee and a book. Even though I was enjoying this rare moment of peace and leisurely reading over sunrise, I found myself eager to pack up camp and see what lied ahead on the road!

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As I tried to finish a chapter, my attention was frequently being drawn towards the lake. 

*splash*  *splash*

What is that?

……*splash*….

Oh god, it’s a grizzly in the lake.

I slowly unzipped the tent and stood up to get a better look. 

Nothing.

*splash*

A fish. A lot of fish. 

Whew. Not a bear. Just bear food.

I took a video of my morning view over the lake- there weren’t nearly as many fish at this time, but the morning sounds and lake/mountain views were worth capturing:

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I remember Matthew explaining to me once how fish will come up to the surface in the morning due to low oxygen levels in the water as the temperature has dropped. The fish were really reaching for the sky today! Just like Matthew would be, as we both would later recognize and celebrate.

Once our campsite was packed up, I tried to drive safely as my eyes were stuck on the surrounding beauty. Ben, the guy who helped us out in Spokane, gave us a heads up on a scenic spot along highway 2 to see Kootenai Falls. Timing was really in our favor today- I passed by Matthew about a half mile away from the pull out, so we ended up parking there and enjoying a hike together. Definitely worth the stop!

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After our side adventure, we continued our way eastward. I did my usual frequent stops to take in the views, which again allowed Matthew to get ahead.  I eventually saw him up ahead and noticed he was standing on the side of the road tinkering with his bike. His gear shifter was giving him issues again- the same front derailleur. Luckily we saw on our maps that there was a bike shop at the next town over.

After Matthew got his bike taken care of, we had a small lunch together and he expressed his ultimate goal for the day.

“I want to make it to Eureka.”

There were several potential road blocks with this goal. Because of his mechanical issues, we were already running behind. It was 1:00 pm, getting hot, and Eureka was another 70 miles away- another hilly 70 miles. Also, this would make for a total of 100 miles for the day! A first.

We talked through the logistics. We figured if he took off the weight of his panniers and gave them to me, he could maybe make it to Eureka before it got dark. I loaded up my car with his gear and he set off!

While he pedaled, I explored the town and talked with some of the locals at the coffee shop. The two girls working looked slightly younger than me, and in classic western Montana style, were friendly and eager to talk. One girl was from California- we commiserated together over the cost of living and our shared relief to get out. The other girl was born and raised right there in Libby, MT. She agreed that western Montana is heaven on earth, and she has no plans to leave. 

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After finishing my coffee, I told them where I was headed and discussed Matthew’s bike route. The girls were excited to hear about the trip- they said they meet cross country cyclists every spring and summer. Libby also hosts an annual bike tour that goes around western Montana. It’s an extremely biker friendly town! The local girl gave me a tip to stop over by Libby dam to take in some cool views.

Obviously that’s exactly what I did. I met four motorcyclists taking in the views- one pointed out a bald eagle. I couldn’t grab my camera quickly enough, but one of the other motorcyclists got out her phone and showed me the incredible video she caught.  I don’t have any epic bald eagle videos to share, but here are some photos:

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I bid farewell to the group of traveling motorcyclists and took to the road again. Matthew and I had no cell phone reception throughout most of the day, so I had to rely on setting up break points based on his estimated MPH. I was able to easily catch up to Matthew close to our designated rest areas. He was still managing to pedal on, so I took a lunch break at a small RV diner near the lake.

Sometimes I almost feel guilty for the luxury I get being the SAG vehicle. How quickly I remind myself, though, that the bike part has been his decade-long dream.

So…screw the guilt, I’m eating tacos by the lake today!!

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Something in my gut told me to purchase a gallon jug of chilled water before I left. I had multiple reusable bottles filled with water already, but it was heating up today and Matthew drinks more water than anyone else I’ve ever met. As someone who works with people with swallowing disorders, I’m constantly amused by his gulping power.

Once back on the road, I pulled over for Matthew and sure enough, the guy needed more water, but not as desperately as I had assumed. Oh well, at least I have emergency water on reserve!

I continued forward and got excited when I saw two other men riding their fully loaded bikes headed in the same direction! Surely they’re going cross country.

Like the creep that I am, I turned around to pass by them again. I wanted to pull over somewhere and see if I could talk to one of them, but there was nowhere to pull over. I probably passed by them three times before finally finding a spot on the side of the road to pull over and wait for them….again, like a creep.

One started to slowly ride past me.

“Where ya headed?” I hollered.

He kept slowly riding away from me, but still answered.

“Maine!”

He wasn’t stopping. I needed to lower my creep factor a bit.

Let him know you’re one of his kind!

“My husband is riding to Virginia right now- I’m his support!”

He finally looked back towards me and turned around to park his bike by my car.

“Would you like some cold water?” I asked.

Now we were besties. “WOULD I? Oh YES! My buddy is coming up behind me, too!!”

Meet Jim and Moss. Jim is 70 years old, and Moss will be turning 70 this year. To celebrate, they’re biking across the country, following much of the same route we’re on.

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They gave me a card with their names and blog- if you’d like to follow along their journey, here’s the link:

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We talked for a while and realized we’d be sharing the route up until Minnesota. Hopefully we see these guys again!

Jim and Moss expressed their gratitude for the cold water, noting that the chill gave them the much-needed energy boost on this hot day.

It was time for me to head up to our AirBnb we snagged. We found a cottage on some tucked away property that a retired couple had just listed. Because it was a new listing, the price was more than reasonable! Another lucky find.

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I set up shop and finally got cell reception. Matthew called to inform me he was about 30 minutes away from Eureka. We had to make it to a restaurant, Front Porch Grill, that Ben had recommended. Ben also used to work there, so he said we should let them know he sent us over.

With 30 minutes to spare, Matthew made it! He was wobbly and worn out, more than ready for a full meal and a celebratory drink! One of our rules is to cheers over a local beverage (or ice cream) each time Matthew crosses a state line or bikes 100 miles.

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I loaded up Matthew’s bike and his creaky bones into the car and we drove off to our lodge. The owners are among the kindest people we’ve met and made sure everything was perfect. They even have a friendly greeter that instantly makes you feel like you’re home.

Sierra is always ready to greet her guests with her squeaky ball and an invitation to a belly rub.

We did some much-needed laundry and reorganizing before passing out on the remote controlled Sleep Number bed (I’m serious when I say we got the deal of a lifetime). Tomorrow we go to Whitefish and plan to take a day off since it will be 4th of July. Also, we want to drive an hour and a half south down to Missoula where the American Cycling Association headquarters is located and personally thank them for making this trip possible!